Bought the satin and lining I needed for the corset and bodice of the dress yesterday. I toyed with buying horsehair braid too but I decided to hold off until I knew how much I needed.
Then, I started working on my crepe satin and organza layers. Initially, I was going to cut everything on the bias so I could lettuce hem everything but upon studying C.C.’s dress a little bit more, I realized that it wasn’t going to matter because her hems are rather fluid in the skirts, not flouncy like Euphemia’s. Plus, cutting it across the grain like normal would have saved me a ton of fabric.
To cut those layers, I put the organza underneath the crepe, pinned it, marked my pattern in chalk, and cut them both out. There is a trick I heard of where you sandwich slippery fabric in between layers of paper but I gave my newsprint to Austin to pattern his Hiccup costume and my knee worked perfectly fine to keep my layers together. Surprisingly enough, I did get identical cuts on both fabrics so meh.
I cut the front and back panels of the skirts but had to make a choice regarding the side panels. I only had enough organza+crepe to cut one panel so I held off until I could get more fabric. Not cutting on the bias also allowed me to cut out the gathered bodice of my dress and the puff sleeves in the remnant.
Originally, my sleeves were going to be constructed in four pieces (the organza+crepe puff, the satin corset sleeve bands, the lower bicep, and the bell sleeve) but after drafting a muslin for the bell sleeve, I realized I usually pattern those types of sleeves to include the lower bicep and can construct these sleeves in three pieces. I’m still unhappy with the drape of my muslin so I have to try a different pattern tonight. These bell sleeves will be cut on the bias because I’m not lining these sleeves; I’m finishing the edges with a lettuce hem and need the stretch.
In my research and referencing other cosplayers, C.C.’s dresses always dip below her shoulder blades. my current design has the top of my corset sitting right underneath my shoulder blades, which is fine, but I may need to recut the back of my gathered organza+crepe layer to dip below my shoulder blades as well instead of cutting straight across my back. I might get lucky and be able to pull the layer to sweep downwards though.
Tonight, I am working on the inner bodice and corset layers! If any of you have seen Joshua Hart’s C.C. dress, I’m going to do something similar to what he did for the bodice where there is a fitted bodice and gathered fabric on top. For my corset, it is going to be a weird mash-up between a regular dress pattern and a corset to accommodate for the sleeves and the ruffled flounce.
Speaking of which, I still haven’t decided what I’m going to do about that flounce. Satin is too heavy and flat but crepe satin is too light and still flat. I will probably end up doing it in satin with horsehair braid in the hem to keep the edges stiff.