After the disaster that was C.C.’s corset, I knew I needed to take a break before I did something stupid. I had been putting off Lelouch in favor of finishing C.C. but now… it was time.
Sarah had a tailed coat in the closet so I took off C.C. and put it on my form. I had practiced draping on a summer blazer for Gou,but now it was time to see if I remembered how to do it. I draped muslin over the tails and started drawing with my pen.
To my utter delight, I had a perfect replica of her tails with the modifications to the front for Lelouch.
However, I forgot to add seam allowance and it was a little tight.
I redid my mockup with a 1-inch addition. It needed to be taken in at the center back seam but we decided it was okay to have the coat a little roomy to account for the layers underneath.
Then came the hardest part: the train.
Sarah wanted a cathedral train because of her tendency to trip, but we both knew deep deep inside that the coat would have a monarch train because of the way it drapes in Lelouch’s arms. We played around with extra muslin until we had a length long enough to drape in her arms and wide enough to get it through both arms. A little bit of pattern manipulation meant that I could cut one half of the coat out of a single piece of unfolded lining with darting to true it size and enough fabric to have a single seam running down the back.
Unfortunately, that meant buying more very expensive fabric.
One half of the back of her coat took three yard of fabric, meaning there is six yards of fabric in the back alone. I wanted us to make the most of pre-Thanksgiving sales and we managed to get another four yards of empire velvet and three yards of anti-static lining for $52. We discovered that velvet has a smaller width than lining (44″ to 58″) so we have to take in the lining somewhere.
I cut out all the velvet pieces of the coat, sans the trim and collar, and was delighted to find my calculations were correct and I had enough velvet blocks to cut my missing pieces.
I still have to cut the last piece of lining and stitch the shells together but I’m ready to start on the collar, cuffs, and appliques!