Ahhhhh! I finished Kougyoku at last and now it’s time for my construction recap!
Dress: I made the bodice out of ivory casa satin and the skirt out of red taffeta from the clearance section. The ruffles are yellow silk-like fabric gathered with my ruffle foot and attached in between the satin and the yellow lining. The skirt was also gathered using my ruffle foot. I purposely made the dress loose fitting because it fits with the time period. The sleeves gave me the most trouble since I made them too small around the wrist the first time but that was fixed by inserting another panel. I tried to avoid having ruffles sewn on the edge of the yellow part of the sleeves, opting to have a loose yellow silk layer, but the ruffles didn’t show up very well so I ended up having to add in another three yards of extra yellow silk ruffle just so they would show up. In order to add volume, I wore my mother’s wedding petticoat she gifted to me underneath it.
Green Overskirt: We used this iridescent green taffeta last summer for Mike’s Earth King cosplay and I knew I wanted to use it for Kougyoku. I actually bought the red taffeta for the dress despite owning yards upon yards of red dupoini just so it would match better. The black trim is satin with white bridal satin circle appliquéd on. The trim is blind hem stitched to the green skirt. The entire thing is gathered at the waist with an elastic waistband.
Pink Overskirt: This is dark pink satin with a petal pink satin bias tape. There is also a petal pink lining on the inside and interfacing sandwiched in between the layers. Of all the pieces, this was one of the most difficult to construct and I need to remake it with darts to drape over my skirts better.
Pink Shawl: This was by far the most difficult and time-consuming piece to construct aside from the hairpin. The patter was easy to draft but I think I made the shoulders a touch too broad. Oh well. It took several attempts to get the collar right and the trim is made the same way as the green overskirt. I made a thin ribbon from leftover red taffeta for the bow around her neck.
Green Sash: There are two green sashes made from the same taffeta as the overskirt. The one around my shoulders actually has some wire-edged ribbon and 18 gauge wire inside to help it stand up and “float.” It is secured to my shawl with safety pins at the shoulders.
Hairpin and clip: Both were made from worbla. I used modge podge to smooth out the layers and a ton of paint. The heart shaped sections are actually heart beads left over from Lucy. The jewels are actually TranspaArt painted with red anodized paint and silver paint. The gold chain is a gold necklace cut to size.
Wig: I made two felt loops and sewed them to the top of my old Gou wig. Then I took sections of hair and glued them to the felt loops to make the “rabbit ears.” The rest of the hair was pulled into a ponytail and separated by spraying each section with Aquanet. I don’t like how this wig turned out because of the gross texture but Rin is styling a new wig for me for Christmas!
I had a lot of fun wearing Kougyoku and hanging out with my Magi squad! She was surprisingly fun to wear and has quickly become one of my favorite costumes.
Until next time!